Exterior Contractor Glossary

The first row of brick or block laid during construction. It sits directly on the foundation or footing and determines the alignment of everything above it. A poorly set base course causes problems throughout the entire structure.

A single layer of brick applied to the exterior of a wall for appearance. It is not structural and doesn’t hold the building up, but it adds durability and curb appeal.

The mortar applied to a brick or block before it is set in place. “Buttering” a brick means coating it with mortar on the side that will bond to the next unit.

A concrete or metal cover placed on top of a chimney to prevent water, animals, and debris from entering. A cracked or missing chimney cap is one of the most common causes of chimney damage.

The concrete surface that covers the top of a chimney structure, surrounding the flue. Unlike the cap, the crown is part of the masonry itself. Cracks in the crown allow water to get inside the chimney and cause major damage over time.

The cap or top course of a wall, typically sloped to shed water. Without proper coping, water sits on top of a wall and eventually works its way in, causing cracking and deterioration.

The white, chalky residue that sometimes appears on brick or concrete surfaces. It happens when water moves through masonry and deposits salts on the surface as it evaporates. It is usually a cosmetic issue but can indicate moisture problems if persistent.

A concrete base poured below ground level that supports a wall, column, or structure. In NJ, footings must go below the frost line, typically 36 to 42 inches deep, to prevent movement caused by freezing and thawing.

The upward movement of soil caused by water freezing and expanding underground. In NJ’s climate, frost heave is a major reason why footings, retaining walls, and paved surfaces must be installed at proper depth. Improper depth is the #1 cause of cracking and shifting.

A mixture of cement, sand, and water used to fill joints between tiles, pavers, or masonry units. Unlike mortar, grout does not bond units together; it fills the space between them.

A horizontal beam, typically steel or reinforced concrete, placed above a door or window opening in a masonry wall to carry the weight above it. Failed lintels cause cracking above openings.

The bonding material used to hold bricks, stones, or blocks together. Made from cement, sand, and water. Mortar mix varies based on the application, and the wrong mix for an exterior NJ application will fail faster.

A thin coat of mortar applied to a masonry surface, usually a foundation wall or chimney, to smooth it out, waterproof it, or improve its appearance.

The process of removing deteriorated mortar from the joints between bricks or stones and replacing it with fresh mortar. Also called tuckpointing. Most brick walls need repointing every 20 to 30 years. Failing to repoint allows water infiltration that damages both the mortar and the bricks themselves.

A structure built to hold back soil and prevent erosion on sloped or uneven ground. Retaining walls must be properly engineered for drainage. A wall without drainage behind it will eventually fail due to hydrostatic pressure (water buildup pushing against the wall).

A layer of natural or manufactured stone applied to an exterior wall, foundation, or chimney for appearance. Like brick veneer, it’s decorative rather than structural. Manufactured (cultured) stone is lighter and cheaper; natural stone lasts longer and looks authentic.

A small raised platform or set of steps at the entrance of a home. Stoops are common in NJ and the Northeast and are typically constructed from brick, concrete, or stone.

Small openings left in a retaining wall or masonry structure to allow water to drain out. Essential for retaining walls. Without them, water pressure builds up behind the wall and causes it to lean, crack, or collapse.

Crushed stone, gravel, or sand mixed into asphalt or concrete. The size and type of aggregate affects the strength and durability of the finished surface.

A mixture of aggregates and bitumen (a petroleum-based binder) used to pave driveways and roads. Asphalt is flexible, which makes it more resistant to cracking from freeze-thaw cycles than concrete. It requires sealing every 3 to 5 years to maintain its condition.

The layer of crushed stone installed beneath asphalt, pavers, or concrete. The depth and compaction of the base is the most important factor in how long a paved surface lasts. Most contractor failures come from skimping on the base. It’s invisible once the job is done, which is why some contractors cut corners here.

A layer of sand laid over the sub-base before pavers are set. It provides a level surface and allows minor adjustment during installation. For paver driveways, a proper sand bed depth is typically 1 inch.

Large granite or concrete blocks used for edging, aprons, or full driveway installation. Common in NJ and known for their durability and classic look. Often used as a border for asphalt or paver driveways.

The border installed around a paved area to keep pavers, gravel, or asphalt in place and prevent spreading. Proper edging is critical for pavers. Without it, the edges shift outward over time.

Individual concrete or brick units installed in a pattern that locks them together. Unlike poured concrete or asphalt, individual pavers can be removed and replaced if damaged. Interlocking pavers are one of the most durable and visually versatile driveway and patio options available.

Sand swept into the joints between pavers to lock them together and resist weed growth. Polymeric sand contains additives that harden when wet, making it more resistant to erosion and weeds than standard joint sand.

A paving process where the top layer of existing asphalt is ground down (milled) and a fresh layer is applied on top. Used when the base is still in good condition but the surface has deteriorated.

The section of paving that connects the driveway to the street or garage. Often done in Belgian block or pavers while the main driveway is asphalt, a common and effective combination.

A protective coating applied to asphalt surfaces to protect against water, UV damage, and oxidation. Asphalt should be sealed every 3 to 5 years. New asphalt should not be sealed for at least 6 to 12 months after installation.

The native soil beneath all paving layers. Proper subgrade preparation (compaction and grading) is essential before any base material is laid.

A planned groove cut or formed into a concrete slab to control where cracking occurs. Concrete expands and contracts with temperature, and it will crack. Control joints direct those cracks to specific, hidden locations rather than random visible spots.

The time concrete needs to reach its full strength after being poured. Concrete is not done setting in 24 hours. Full cure takes approximately 28 days. Applying heavy loads, sealing too early, or exposing new concrete to freezing temperatures before it cures weakens the final product.

A decorative finish where the top layer of cement paste is removed to expose the stone or gravel beneath. Creates a textured, slip-resistant surface often used on patios and walkways.

A tool used to smooth and compact fresh concrete just after it is poured. Floating brings the cream (cement paste) to the surface and removes high and low spots.

A temporary frame, typically made from wood or metal, used to shape poured concrete. Forms are removed after the concrete sets.

Concrete mixed at a plant and delivered to the job site in a rotating drum truck. Standard for most residential concrete work.

Steel bars placed inside concrete before it is poured to add tensile strength. Concrete is strong under compression but weak under tension, so rebar handles the tension. Driveways and structural slabs should always include rebar or wire mesh.

Applying a thin new layer of concrete or a cement-based product over an existing slab to restore a worn but structurally sound surface. Cheaper than a full tear-out and repour, and a good option when the base concrete is still solid.

The process of leveling freshly poured concrete by dragging a straight board across the surface. Also refers to the board itself.

Surface flaking, chipping, or peeling of concrete, usually caused by freeze-thaw cycles, de-icing salt, or improper finishing. A common reason NJ driveways, sidewalks, and steps need repair or resurfacing.

Concrete pressed with textured mats or stamps before it fully sets to create patterns that resemble stone, brick, slate, or wood. Color can also be added. A cost-effective way to get a decorative look compared to natural stone.

A grid of steel wire placed inside a concrete slab to reinforce it and reduce cracking. Used as an alternative to rebar on lighter applications like sidewalks and patios.

Exterior Insulation and Finish System, a foam-based, multi-layer stucco alternative. Adds insulation but is more prone to moisture problems than traditional stucco if it isn’t installed and flashed correctly.

Built-in exterior features such as grills, counters, seating walls, and gas or wood fire pits, typically constructed from masonry, stone, or pavers to extend usable outdoor living space.

A trench filled with gravel and a perforated pipe that redirects groundwater away from a foundation or low-lying area. One of the most common fixes for wet NJ basements and soggy yards.

The pressure that water in saturated soil exerts against a foundation or retaining wall. It’s the main reason basements leak and walls fail when there’s no proper drainage.

A pump set in a basin at the lowest point of a basement that collects water and pumps it out and away from the home. Common in NJ due to high water tables and heavy seasonal rain.

Traditional stucco applied in three layers (scratch coat, brown coat, and finish coat) over metal lath. More durable and repairable than synthetic systems.

A membrane installed to stop moisture from migrating through walls or floors. Used in basement waterproofing and beneath concrete slabs.

A metal strip installed at the base of a stucco wall that lets trapped moisture escape. Required by code. A missing or buried weep screed traps water behind the stucco and causes rot.